Sunday Sunrise

Sunrises and sunsets on the atoll can be spectacular in themselves. Add ‘a few’(!) birds and it’s a truly special experience.

Pre-sunrise, sky’s pink tint growing to the west
Looking east towards Eastern Island
Hybrid (Blackfooted/Laysan) with noticeable grey undercarriage
Post-sunrise shadows, cyclists left, mōlī (Laysan albatross) right

December 7th on Midway

Today, as well as remembering the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, we honored 1st Lt. George H Cannon, who died, aged 26, when Japanese battleships shelled Midway later that day. 1st Lt Cannon had refused to be evacuated until communications were restored to his command post, and subsequently died from his injuries. He became the first US Marine in WWII to be awarded the Medal of Honor.

Our group of albatross nest counters visited his memorial site in front of the command building where he was mortally wounded, and paid our respects to a fine young man for his bravery.

Warm Welcomes

There is nothing like being welcomed with open arms and huge grins after a two year absence!

We finally touched down around 10:30pm Wednesday night, firstly to the welcome of a familiar white line of albatross lining the taxiway, and next to staff as we exited the plane, then finally to more staff and residents warmly greeting us at Charlie Barracks.

Thursday morning brought more hugs and smiles at Clipper House (our ‘restaurant’) especially from Pong and Kid, the marvelous Thai chefs.

Clipper House
The walk from breakfast back to our house

A surprise greeting as we opened our front door on Thursday morning was from KP617, a bird banded back home on Kaua’i, who was also hanging out with us two years ago.

I currently have no internet access at our quarters, our usual Empire House base, which incidentally in the days of the Naval base was The Brig!😀 That situation may well change, but in the meantime we’re fortunate to have occasional access to Starlink in a separate building. However, time is limited, so posts may be random and brief.

Empire Cafe, aka The Brig

Waikiki is not Midway…

…however, there are worse ways to spend a sunny morning with a group of buddies all awaiting our 24hr-postponed night-time charter. A number of us headed out early am for a 2-3 miles walk to Waikiki, diverting through a residential area, to arrive at the War Memorial Natatorium and banyan tree.

From there it’s a pleasant shoreline walk into Waikiki itself.

The fun piano player was absent when we passed the café from 2 years ago, but we had plenty of options for a hearty breakfast and bottomless black coffee. Caffeine and water, my morning necessity!

Then I got to play tourist with my camera on the way back.🤣

The famous pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel dwarfed by modern Waikiki

Staying at the bunkhouse means cleaning up behind ourselves, even after one night, which includes laundry & cleaning floors/bathrooms etc…it kills some time. A couple of ‘troopers’ even weed-whacked the back yard, and picked up trash that is regularly chucked over the fence from the main road.🤗

Before & After

Now it’s time for me to contribute to last minute tasks before our ride arrives.

Midway, or bust!

Annual Albatross Nest Count HY2025

This blog site has been under dust sheets for many years, but today I was planning to resurrect it starting with an account of my 5th arrival on Midway Atoll, to prepare for this season’s Annual Albatross Nest Count (Hatch Year 2025). Unfortunately, that post will have to wait another day…or more.

This afternoon we had news that our evening charter is canceled, and we’ll be spending another night in Honolulu, trusting that we’re able to leave tomorrow night.

This is nothing new for some of us…actually Plan B’s generally are nothing new for anyone who’s familiar with Midway!😳 As we set out on our previous trip two years ago, around 7:30pm, the plane blew a tire turning onto the runway. Quite a saga over several hours, first trying various doomed maneuvers to get back to the hangar, finally requesting an airport bus to collect us from the taxiway, plus more delays getting transport from the airport to a quickly arranged bunkhouse for the night.

So this time feels like no biggy (apart from the delayed greeting from hundreds of thousands of albatross, of course). The bunkhouse is an easy 15 min walk to Waikiki with plenty of places to chill tonight, and tomorrow. As long as the warm dry Hawaiian weather continues to cooperate, we’ll likely repeat our morning from two years ago, an early walk along the shoreline, followed by coffee at a beach café which may even have the same happy gent playing piano.

Still, it’s been a great stop in Honolulu, as I flew in a day early to visit Pearl Harbor; my first visit, and a very sobering experience. The whole site, with many museums, memorials, movies and interactions, is extremely well and respectfully managed. Standing quietly inside the memorial built over the sunken remains of the USS Arizona caused an overwhelming, stomach-churning sadness and brought tears to my eyes. The Pacific Maritime Museum and experience inside the USS Bowfin submarine opened them!…so much detailed information in the excellent displays.

USS Arizona Memorial
Memorial to the 900+ who rest below
USS Arizona
USS Missouri to left of the USS Arizona Memorial
Torpedo tubes, USS Bowfin, so much brass to shine!
USS Bowfin

I will definitely plan a return visit to experience it again, as well other areas including Ford Island and USS Missouri.

Onwards to Midway tomorrow!🤞