Eastern Island

Eastern Island—creatively named, as it lies on the East side of the Atoll😉— is a boat ride from Sand Island where we all live. So, the weather and ocean conditions have to cooperate for us to get there to count.

Pihemanu/Midway Atoll

Eastern Island is something over a mile long and over 1/2 mile wide at its widest point. For our count purposes, it’s divided into 10 sectors, and most of them are humungous! This is my 5th count and I still can’t get my head around how much larger Eastern is than it appears on the map.

The first sector we counted this year took eight of us a full day (well, to be precise, seven for the first half of the morning, then eight). Oh, but what a glorious day it was!

Heading to Eastern early am

Sector E3 is a large (very very large) rectangle, outlined in blue in the image. Most of it is bordered to the north by a thick band of naupaka.

The most efficient way to count it is to send one person off to the naupaka to paint a line along the front edge, and count everything between it and the ocean, while the rest of the team transect the open area back and forth between the sector border (one of the old WW2 runways) and the painted line.

Here’s a image showing my individual transects (am: blue, pm: green) within the team. 3 hours in the morning, and another hour+ after lunch, followed by the long trudge back to the pier. You can see the tighter, more time-consuming track in the morning when we had one less counter (sometimes two less while one was deep in the naupaka) and also some trickier terrain to cover, such as extra pockets of naupaka bushes.

Thankfully, there are very few Bonin petrel burrows in that sector, so no need for burrow shoes, and we transected the sector mostly uninterrupted, apart from negotiating those smaller pockets of vegetation.

It’s not difficult to find an ideal picnic spot for a lunch break. The entire island is bounded by sandy beach, with a spectacular view of ocean and birds.

Lunch break
Typical Eastern Island landscape

Back on the pier in the afternoon, waiting to be picked up by the landing craft, we were entertained by a brown booby cooling its feet, and a cute pair of brown noddies.

Brown booby
Brown noddy pair
Boarding landing craft for return to Sand Island

We returned to Eastern last Friday, this time with our full complement of 12 counters, plus again an additional FWS volunteer for the afternoon after he’d completed his own work. As shown in my track above, having just one extra body widens our line and can add many counted birds to each transect, substantially reducing the time needed for the sector, so we’re always grateful for the extra help.

If anything, Friday’s weather was even better for us, with a light breeze that reduced the temperature by a few degrees.

Every visit to Eastern is special, and worth all the effort we expend working our butts off on the count.😊 Friday also gave us a monk seal hauling out in front of us as we ate lunch on the south shore, a white tern awaiting our return to the pier, and a very playful pod of spinner dolphins escorting us on our way back to Sand Island.

Monk seal and ruddy turnstones
White tern
View from pier

Mele Kalikimaka from Midway aka Kuaihelani aka Pihemanu

Midway or Midway Atoll, like all the North Western Hawaiian Islands, has its own Hawaiian name, in fact more than one: Kuaihelani (‘the backbone of heaven’) and Pihemanu (‘the loud din of birds’). Pihemanu is particularly apt! The sounds never stop, day or night. When the albatross settle in the evening, the Bonin petrels take over, and the albatross still whistle and clack intermittently all night long.

Last night was a fun Christmas Eve party for everyone on island, kindly hosted by the Refuge Manager at Midway House.

Midway House
Christmas Eve welcome

The main event, the annual gift exchange, is always full of funny and imaginative gifts, and therefore much stealing…the latest Pihemanu rule is no limit on steals, which led to many truly hilarious interactions!

Christmas Day is traditionally celebrated with a single family-style meal in Clipper House at 11am. The choice of delicious food is almost overwhelming, and everyone brings takeout containers to pack leftovers to last them through til breakfast tomorrow, so that the kitchen staff can at least have a break from one dinner service after all their work preparing for this special meal.

Coming from Kaua’i, it was fun to see they built an Imu (an inground oven) to cook a whole pig.

Imu Midway 2024
Pig removed
Dousing the fire

As I write we’re in the midst of a downpour, so no chance to walk off the Christmas meal. Oh well! Will just have to make up for it when we’re back to counting tomorrow.

Mele Kalikimaka!🎄

Midway by Moonlight

We’re fortunate to have had a week of excellent weather, both for our counting efforts and to enjoy the Full Moon this weekend.

Friday was a movie night at Captain Brookes. One of the island firemen regularly shows a movie and it usually draws a gathering of 10 or 12. Walking home afterwards in bright moonlight was a treat, with the albatross whistling and clacking, while Bonin petrels patroled the skies and squawked on the ground around us as we walked.

Captain Brookes with Clipper House in the distance
Charlie Barracks in the distance

Last night (Saturday) I braved the swarm of Bonin petrels on my bike ride to Cargo Pier, to enjoy the Full Moon.

Cargo Pier & Turtle Beach by moonlight

I was surprised to have the pier to myself, a perfect time for quiet contemplation. I’m so grateful for another opportunity to experience this amazing tiny spot in the Universe.

Sunday Sunrise

Sunrises and sunsets on the atoll can be spectacular in themselves. Add ‘a few’(!) birds and it’s a truly special experience.

Pre-sunrise, sky’s pink tint growing to the west
Looking east towards Eastern Island
Hybrid (Blackfooted/Laysan) with noticeable grey undercarriage
Post-sunrise shadows, cyclists left, mōlī (Laysan albatross) right

December 7th on Midway

Today, as well as remembering the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, we honored 1st Lt. George H Cannon, who died, aged 26, when Japanese battleships shelled Midway later that day. 1st Lt Cannon had refused to be evacuated until communications were restored to his command post, and subsequently died from his injuries. He became the first US Marine in WWII to be awarded the Medal of Honor.

Our group of albatross nest counters visited his memorial site in front of the command building where he was mortally wounded, and paid our respects to a fine young man for his bravery.

Warm Welcomes

There is nothing like being welcomed with open arms and huge grins after a two year absence!

We finally touched down around 10:30pm Wednesday night, firstly to the welcome of a familiar white line of albatross lining the taxiway, and next to staff as we exited the plane, then finally to more staff and residents warmly greeting us at Charlie Barracks.

Thursday morning brought more hugs and smiles at Clipper House (our ‘restaurant’) especially from Pong and Kid, the marvelous Thai chefs.

Clipper House
The walk from breakfast back to our house

A surprise greeting as we opened our front door on Thursday morning was from KP617, a bird banded back home on Kaua’i, who was also hanging out with us two years ago.

I currently have no internet access at our quarters, our usual Empire House base, which incidentally in the days of the Naval base was The Brig!😀 That situation may well change, but in the meantime we’re fortunate to have occasional access to Starlink in a separate building. However, time is limited, so posts may be random and brief.

Empire Cafe, aka The Brig

Waikiki is not Midway…

…however, there are worse ways to spend a sunny morning with a group of buddies all awaiting our 24hr-postponed night-time charter. A number of us headed out early am for a 2-3 miles walk to Waikiki, diverting through a residential area, to arrive at the War Memorial Natatorium and banyan tree.

From there it’s a pleasant shoreline walk into Waikiki itself.

The fun piano player was absent when we passed the café from 2 years ago, but we had plenty of options for a hearty breakfast and bottomless black coffee. Caffeine and water, my morning necessity!

Then I got to play tourist with my camera on the way back.🤣

The famous pink Royal Hawaiian Hotel dwarfed by modern Waikiki

Staying at the bunkhouse means cleaning up behind ourselves, even after one night, which includes laundry & cleaning floors/bathrooms etc…it kills some time. A couple of ‘troopers’ even weed-whacked the back yard, and picked up trash that is regularly chucked over the fence from the main road.🤗

Before & After

Now it’s time for me to contribute to last minute tasks before our ride arrives.

Midway, or bust!

Annual Albatross Nest Count HY2025

This blog site has been under dust sheets for many years, but today I was planning to resurrect it starting with an account of my 5th arrival on Midway Atoll, to prepare for this season’s Annual Albatross Nest Count (Hatch Year 2025). Unfortunately, that post will have to wait another day…or more.

This afternoon we had news that our evening charter is canceled, and we’ll be spending another night in Honolulu, trusting that we’re able to leave tomorrow night.

This is nothing new for some of us…actually Plan B’s generally are nothing new for anyone who’s familiar with Midway!😳 As we set out on our previous trip two years ago, around 7:30pm, the plane blew a tire turning onto the runway. Quite a saga over several hours, first trying various doomed maneuvers to get back to the hangar, finally requesting an airport bus to collect us from the taxiway, plus more delays getting transport from the airport to a quickly arranged bunkhouse for the night.

So this time feels like no biggy (apart from the delayed greeting from hundreds of thousands of albatross, of course). The bunkhouse is an easy 15 min walk to Waikiki with plenty of places to chill tonight, and tomorrow. As long as the warm dry Hawaiian weather continues to cooperate, we’ll likely repeat our morning from two years ago, an early walk along the shoreline, followed by coffee at a beach café which may even have the same happy gent playing piano.

Still, it’s been a great stop in Honolulu, as I flew in a day early to visit Pearl Harbor; my first visit, and a very sobering experience. The whole site, with many museums, memorials, movies and interactions, is extremely well and respectfully managed. Standing quietly inside the memorial built over the sunken remains of the USS Arizona caused an overwhelming, stomach-churning sadness and brought tears to my eyes. The Pacific Maritime Museum and experience inside the USS Bowfin submarine opened them!…so much detailed information in the excellent displays.

USS Arizona Memorial
Memorial to the 900+ who rest below
USS Arizona
USS Missouri to left of the USS Arizona Memorial
Torpedo tubes, USS Bowfin, so much brass to shine!
USS Bowfin

I will definitely plan a return visit to experience it again, as well other areas including Ford Island and USS Missouri.

Onwards to Midway tomorrow!🤞